Counter Intelligence: Hinoki & the Bird

A plate of hinoki scented black cod at Hinoki & the Bird, a new restaurant at the base of a Century City condo tower in Los Angeles. Photo taken Friday, Feb. 22, 2013 (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

Feb. 26, 2013 2:35 PM PT

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A look at the new Hinoki & the Bird restaurant in Century City.

Hinoki & the Bird chef and owner David Myers and executive chef Kuniko Yagi hold a plate of hinoki-scented black cod noted in Bon Appétit magazine’s list of 50 nominees for the best new restaurants in the United States. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

A bowl of kale, crispy and raw, with curried almonds, pecorino and red wine vinaigrette. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The chili crab toast is a canape-sized take on the Singapore classic. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The grilled skate wing is crusted with a fragrant paste of chiles and fermented seafood. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

The lobster roll is made with green curry and Thai basil tucked into a black roll made with charcoal-enriched flour. (Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)